Today , 12/21/11 I installed front loaded Calipers. As I always say, there is never a job too small or big for learning. I have had the pleasure to own my Delorean for 7 yrs now. Before I owned my Delorean, I barely knew how to change my own oil. Since then I have replaced AC accumulator/condenser/compressor, Radiator & Fans, Eibach Springs, Brake Master cylinder, Rear and Front brakes, etc. That being said, any newbee to mechanics can grow their skill and enjoy working on his/her own Delorean.
On to the how-to. I recommend if you still have the original calipers on your car, go ahead and change them. I did mine in pairs, rear first, then fronts. Brakes are probably the most important single system in your car, that will save your life. If you don't feel comfortable working on brakes, then leave it to a professional. That being said, work at your own risk. What I say here are suggestions based on what worked for me.
Sorry for the PICs not showing upright, my blog is messed up! Just download to your PC.
**** 1 ****
First, prepare to jack up the front of the car. I normally jack the car from the same points you would if you had to change a flat; you will notice metal tabs on the rail of the underbody to designate these jack points.
Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels, but don't take them off the studs.
Use a jack on both sides at the same time, and slowly raise the car, alternating a few pumps at a time on each side (this will reduce any strain of tension across the frame and car; I've heard cracked windshields from this).
Raise the car just enough to place the jackstands underneath; the jackstands should be placed right next to the tow hooks, as seen below.
**** 2 ****
Below is a picture of what I used to help me take the calipers off:
1 - 11 mm wrench
1 - 19 mm socket
1- 3/8" ratchet
1 - copper tube (for extra torque needed to loosen caliper bolts)
1 - Power Brake Bleeder
1 - drip bowl
1 - 1 wire brush (for cleaning up fastener threads if needed )
**** 3 *****
First, loosen the Red fastener which holds the hydraulic tube in the caliper (red). The nut will move upwards along the tube slightly, you will also notice fluid coming out. That's normal; be sure to have something to catch it, and some rags handy.
Next you will notice 2 bolts on the inside of the caliper (facing the trunk space) . One is here in green, the other is below it. Use the 19mm to loosen these. You may want to spray it with some PB blaster and let it soak for 10 mins or so if these haven't been touched in years.
This will loosen the entire caliper assembly. Be sure to hold the caliper with one hand, and loosen the bolts by hand with the other. The bracket holding the tube assembly will also come off.
Slowly juggle both and finish disconnecting the tube from the caliper by gently pulling upwards, and drop the caliper.
You will need to prop the tube with a hanger or something to hold the outlet up to prevent the fluid from seeping out.
**** 3****
Good job! It's out. Now grab the new caliper and position it into place.
This is another juggle. I recommend holding the caliper with one hand, while you position the tub bracket to align the holes. Take one bolt, and start tightening the lower one, but not all the way. Then tighten the top bolt, not all the way. Lastly, align the tube into the caliper, and hand tighten the fastener. Ensure the threads line up and the fastener feels normal to touch while it engages. Be sure not to stripe the threads on the fastener or the caliper! Once you have it hand tight, go ahead and finish tightening the bolts on the calipers. Use the same approximate torque you felt when you took them off. Finally, finish tightening the tube fastener with the 11 mm . Wipe the fluid which will be constantly dripping at this time, but once everything is tight, you should not see anything leaking out.
Do the same for the other side, and you're almost there!
***** 4 *****
Once you have bothe calipers back on, it's time for more fun, time to bleed the brakes!
Whenever you open the brake system, you need to bleed it afterwards. Proper bleeding ensures that any air that gets trapped in the line is released , allowing for a solid fluid line from the master cylinder to the caliper, and proper pressures.
I use a Power Bleeder, which is basically a pressurized container which connects to the brake fluid resevoir to simulate pressure. The alternative is pumping the brakes, which is a very slow process. The power bleeder is much quicker and gives more pressure. If you intend on doing other brake jobs, I just recommend you buy one.
If you use a power bleeder, be sure to keep the pressure on the gauge between 10-20psi for effective bleeding; do not exceed 20! I got mine from Specialtauto.com, or you can find something similar elsewhere.
First, locate the brake resevoir and connect the bleeder to the top, Be sure you have some DOT 4 fluid in the power bleeder. Pump the power bleeder to about 10 psi, and make sure you don't have any leaks on the top of the resevoir. You may want to pump a few more times to let's say 10-15.
As shown below:
***** 5 *****
Next, locate the bleeder screw on the caliper. Connect a clear tube to the nipple. This tube can go directly to a closed container or you can just have it drain to a bowl. I prefer using a brake bleeder kit which comes with the bottle, and clear tubes. You can just buy this for a few bucks at AutoZone.
See below:
**** 6 ****
Once you are pressurized to about 10-15 psi, go ahead and crack open the vent screw. You will notice a flow of fluid in the tube, and several bubbles in that mix.
As pressure drops, close the vent. Pressurize again, and re-open. Each time you do this there should be fewer bubbles in the mix. The goal is to have a nice clean flow of fluid, with no bubbles. There may always be some bubble in there, but I would say you should have about 95% clear flow, if not 99%.
Also, I recommend you pump the brake a few times with the pedal, just to make sure all the air is clear of the master cylinder during this process as well.
Once you feel comfortable with the visual flow, disconnect all the bleeding aids, and return the system to normal.
***** 7 *****
Next, I would start the car and get a feel for the brakes. Make sure the pedal travel distance has not significantly changes, and everything else feels as it should.
Also, have someone rotate the front discs and apply the brakes; your new calipers should engage and stop any rotation.
Do a final check and make sure there is no leakage. This is a good time to check everything.
Wipe up any brake fluid on the frame, suspension, paint, caliper, etc. Over time , brake fluid is corrosive, so you dont want it sitting somewhere.
Once everything is satisfactory, it's time to wrap it up. Mount the tires and hand tighten the nuts.
Lower the car, and torque the nuts.
**** 8 *****
Good job, you are done! Go ahead and take the car for a spin around the block first. Don't go easy on the brakes; do some power sprints and stopping just before a stop sign for example. You want to make sure everything is working properly and the car is stopping as it should.
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I know in reality this is not a hard job to do, but for a newbee, I hope you find this useful and the pics as a reference. If you have anything useful to add, please do! Any 2nd opinions are welcomed,
Have fun with your car! And as always, DONT RUSH AND BE SAFE!
--Randy
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